Mogu Mogu! Japanese Sweets by Sound

Today I’m excited to bring you a guest post by food blogger Audrey Foo who writes the wonderful food blog ‘Bites of Oishii‘, where Audrey shares her culinary adventures on a regular basis.  Do go and follow her if you don’t already, especially if you’re a fan of Japanese food.  If you’re wondering what’Oishii’means, (or ‘おいしい’, prounounced ‘oyshee’) it’s the Japanese word for ‘tasty’, or ‘delicious’, which Japanese food most definitely is.

‘Mogu Mogu! Japanese Sweets by Sound’, is a melodic trip through must-try dessert history.  One lifetime is not enough to try the sweets in Japan from traditional wagashito pastries and chocolates from famed French confectioners to hybrid creations melding East and West.

Japanese language sparkles with onomatopoeia (words that sound like their meaning). Charin charin (the sound of a bicycle bell). Potsu potsu (light rain).Kuru kuru (sushi conveyor belts). Come along a sensory tour of Japan’s most delectable desserts!

Mogu mogu (to chew a lot) – Mochi

The first sweets were buns and dumplings from China in the 8th century. The Japanese started making rubbery mochi from steamed and pummelled rice.  Today it’s dipped in soy sauce or filled with beans, fruit, cream or ice cream.

japanese sweet mochi filled cream and fresh strawberry copy

Children are shown a rabbit pounding mochi with a mallet on the moon.  Celebrities thwack it on TV. It’s thrown at neighbours when building a new house. Sadly, every New Year around ten elderly people die choking on the customary blobs.

Warabi mochi (from bracken root starch) are softer, jiggly cubes topped with kuromitsu brown sugar syrup and kinako roasted soybean powder.

Tsubu tsubu (chunky, small bits) – Matcha Parfait

From the 16th century, wagashi evolved with tea ceremony culture. They’re exquisite miniature artworks but Westerners might find them an acquired taste. Like yokan – brown seaweed jelly blocks with sweet potato, red bean or chestnut.  More modern matcha green tea treats draw crowds at cafes like Saryo Tsujiri, from Kyoto. The parfaits are subtly sweet, textural delights with mochi balls, berries and matcha ice cream, whipped cream and sponge.

Saryo Tsujiri matcha green tea parfait sundae kyoto copy

 

Japanese food is generally less sweet than in the West. Europeans imported sugar in the 16th century. It was an expensive rarity until the Japanese cultivated it in the 17th century and not widely used until after the mid-19thcentury.

Fuwa fuwa (soft, fluffy) – Western Style Cakes

Westerners introduced baking with flour, butter and sugar. The Portuguese brought kasutera castella in the 16th century via Nagasaki. Try this moist sponge at Bunmeido, a chain from Nagasaki.

japanese cake kasutera castella sponge cake from bunmeido copy

Japan has little domestic baking tradition. Many people don’t own ovens and go out for cake and pastries. Strawberry shortcake – sponge, cream, fresh strawberries – has become Christmas custom (shared after Kentucky Fried Chicken).

Zaku zaku (crunching) – Dove Sable Biscuit

Kamakura’s famous souvenir, the Hato Sabure, is also sold in nearby Tokyo and Yokohama. Created in 1912, each butter biscuit is handmade perfection.

Japanese biscuit and sweet hato subere dove sable butter biscuit from Kamakura copy

From 1853, America forced Japan out of around 200 years of near isolation and Western influences streamed in. Baked goods gained favour. Post World War II ravaged Japan, unable to grow enough rice, received bread and flour from the US. In 2011, spending on bread surpassed rice.

Sube sube (smooth, rounded) – Dairy Desserts

Dairy was another Western concept and initially deemed repulsive. Today, fans gush over pancakes toppling with cream. Queues swell for cheesecakes at Osaka brands Pablo (choose from rare and gooey or medium and firm) and Rikuro Ojisan.

japanese dessert pudding from Toraya kuzu pudding omotosando hills tokyo copy

Toraya, founded in early 1500s Kyoto, provides sweets to the Imperial Palace.  Old-style wagashi sales have fallen. Toraya’s Omotesando Hills Tokyo café serves updated desserts like pudding with kuzu (root starch), caramel sauce and a citrus jam centre.

Yokohama claims Japan’s first ice cream shop from 1865. Soft serve in Japan, called “soft cream”, comes in flavours wacky even to the Japanese. Squid, spinach, sea urchin, corn soup, wasabi, whitebait, seaweed… Don’t miss Cremia – crammed with Hokkaido whipped cream and milk fat.  Vanilla is the only choice but it’s sinfully lush.

Toro toro (melts in the mouth) – Chocolate

It’s believed Dutch sailors introduced chocolate hundreds of years ago but it really caught on after World War II during the US occupation. American soldiers tossed it to smitten children. High-end chocolate stores boomed from the early 2000s.

KitKats arrived in 1973 as a marketing dream, sounding like “Kitto katsuto” (“win for sure”). They became good luck charms, especially for pre-exam students. Hundreds of zany flavours have included pineapple, soy sauce, sake, sports drink, aloe yoghurt, ginger ale and apple vinegar.  KitKat Premium Chocolatories sell more expensive concoctions like Hokkaido butter or Uji matcha with sakura (cherry blossom).

KitKat Japan premium shops copy

Hokkaido cream is the star again in Royce nama fresh chocolate. The Calbee snack brand’s Royce-smothered potato chips are a sweet/salty mashup.  Older Japanese may feel nostalgic pangs for the roasted sweet potato vans that still ring with vendors’ cries, “Yaki-imo, yaki-imo!” but most sweet tooths today crave more than a cooked tuber.

Japan is a food obsessed nation. You’ll be in a constant state of doki doki (heart pounding) and waku waku (excited anticipation) discovering its endless treats. It really is the best place to gaba gaba (continually eat with gusto)!

 

By Audrey Foo, Bites of Oishii. Go to www.bitesofoishii.com for more Japanese travel, food and culture.

Sources: Richie, D., A Taste of Japan, Kodansha International Ltd, 1990

Sosnoski, D., An Introduction to Japanese Culture, Tuttle Publishing, 1996

Sakamoto, Y., Food, Sake, Tokyo, The Little Bookroom, 2010

Confectionary, Begin Japanology, (documentary), NHK (Japan Broadcasting Corporation), 2012

Mochi Rice Cake, Begin Japanology, (documentary), NHK (Japan Broadcasting Corporation), 2013

Wagashi, Japanology Plus, (documentary), NHK (Japan Broadcasting Corporation), 2014

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